The Enchantment of the 90s Runway - McQueen, Galliano and more.

I recently watched the documentary Catwalk (1995), with Christy Turlington and the other iconic models of the 90s, and it made me think about how different catwalks are now to how they were then. I always find myself going back to videos of catwalks from the 80s and 90s and never really want to watch current ones, I mostly see new collections through pictures now.

It is so evident, when comparing a catwalk from today to the 90s, that catwalks were more exciting back then. Model's were told to perform, to show personality and make the clothes they are displaying look more dramatic and powerful, and enhance movement and life in the garments. They weren't just walking on a catwalk like you see in today's shows, they were strutting, dancing, running.

What really inspired me to write this post was John Galliano's Spring/Summer '94 show. The film shows the behind the scenes where the models are rehearsing their doe-like expressions and fairy-esque performance on the catwalk. Kate Moss practices running in her gown and flashing her doe-eyes at the audience. It looks like such fun! When viewing clothes in this way, seeing people enjoying them and moving and having fun in them, you feel more of a connection to the garments and you can imagine how you would wear them. Garments in static don't inspire any imagination or connection, whereas watching a garment move and be worn by someone can entirely change the way you see it.

Galliano '94

Even shows, in the 90s, that didn't include Kate Moss running down the catwalk still had an essence to them that isn't seen so much anymore. Models were smiling as they walked the runway, they were interacting with their fellow models, and adding personality to the show because it was just as much a display of their careers as it was a display of the designer's career. Models nowadays don't need that because they have other platforms that show their character.

Vivienne Westwood is a good example of shows that aren't particularly performative but have immense personality. This might be through the models used, dramatic hairstyles, makeup, music, etc. A show that springs to mind is her Autumn/Winter '93-'94 show Anglomania, where Naomi Campbell falls in 9-inch heels and latex tights. She falls with such grace and elegance, when she lands she laughs cutely, and the show made history. 

Anglomania '93-'94

When it comes to the catwalk, no one does it quite like Alexander McQueen did, he was an absolute visionary in the fashion world. Lee McQueen shocked his audience with every collection, every garment and every show, he knew exactly how he wanted his art to be presented and how to get a crowds attention. His first catwalk was in 1993, for Spring/Summer '94, titled Nihilism. This show gained him his shocking and controversial reputation in the fashion world. His models strutted down the runway bruised and bloodied, in transparent clothing and bumsters (McQueen's extremely low cut trousers). This look and performance of distress and agony are seen often in McQueen's shows, mirroring the dark and distressing themes of his collections. His fourth runway show, The Highland Rape, Autumn/Winter '95, is a powerful example of how he portrays shocking themes through his work and is seen as his most controversial show of his career. Inspired by the Highland Clearance of Scotland in the mid-1700s to early 1800s, he created a collection of torn, slashed garments, classic Scottish tartan, and dishevelled lace covered in dirt, and some with blood. The models were directed to walk down the catwalk, which was covered in mud, leaves and moss, looking distressed, stumbling in their shoes, glaring at the audience with their piercing eyes, and at the same time looking powerful and intimidating. McQueen was greatly criticised for portraying women in this light, the show was often interpreted as a glamorisation of rape, due to the semi-nude models, and revealing garments. McQueen's intentions were always to empower women, and he said many times that he wanted people to be afraid of the women he dressed. 

The Highland Rape '95

Maybe McQueen's controversial shows are off-topic when describing the 90s runway as 'enchanting', but they are enchanting in a different way. A way that shocks an audience. He took risks, broke boundaries and didn't care that people may disagree with, or dismiss his work. Lee McQueen is unmatched when it comes to the runway.

I think the 90s runway is making a comeback amongst the high fashion brands. Chanel's Spring/Summer '22 was such a joy to see. As well as bringing back Chanel's 90s garments, like the bikinis similar to those from Spring '94, it was also a return of the spirit they had on the runway. The models look as though they were having fun, interacting, performing. It was one of the only shows I watched this season and I really hope this show has inspired other brands to have more fun with their shows and revive the enchantment of the 90s.

Chanel '22

Chanel '94

This post is mainly highlighting the most high-end brands, but there are so many smaller, lesser-known designers who put on incredible shows. Molly Goddard is one of my favourites and her shows are stunningly feminine and powerful, Phoebe English's show at the V&A's Fashion in Motion was so innovative and new, and Selkie's Spring '22 show was so elegant and beautiful. The V&A's Fashion in Motion series is incredible, I try and go every year because they always get such great designers like Phoebe English and Molly Goddard that put on unmissable shows.

Thank you so much for reading, I hope you enjoyed! Feel free to comment thoughts, and follow my blog on the left-hand side.

Love, Bella <3

Instagram: @bellabbloss